Volpone
Zombie Hunter
OK. So I finally had some time off when there was actually decent surf. And I actually found a decent place TO surf. It's a lot more demanding than I remembered it.
I do feel like I can say, with a clean conscience, that I actually surfed today. I got up twice for about 15 seconds and about 10 seconds and I stayed in control and rode the wave until it died. I also managed to get up a bunch more times on waves that were dying, so I didn't actually get any riding.
But I didn't ever actually get out to the main break. I'd manage to paddle out to maybe within 50 yards of the break and then just keep getting stomped back by the surf. Finally I'd settle for a secondary break or ride some whitewater. So, for every 10 seconds spend standing on a board, I spent about a half hour thrashing around in the water, paddling, and another half hour being thrown around like I was in a washing machine. I managed to get a nice slash across the calf by my fin. An hour after that, the place where I got slashed was managing to cramp up real good. That's a lot of fun, I tell you, halving your calf lock up and spasm in pain while surf is trying to drown you.
Still, I'll be out the next time there's good surf and I have some free time. (Although I'm considering a longboard. Those guys can ride tiny breaks and they get to ride a break for close to a minute. :techman:
I do feel like I can say, with a clean conscience, that I actually surfed today. I got up twice for about 15 seconds and about 10 seconds and I stayed in control and rode the wave until it died. I also managed to get up a bunch more times on waves that were dying, so I didn't actually get any riding.
But I didn't ever actually get out to the main break. I'd manage to paddle out to maybe within 50 yards of the break and then just keep getting stomped back by the surf. Finally I'd settle for a secondary break or ride some whitewater. So, for every 10 seconds spend standing on a board, I spent about a half hour thrashing around in the water, paddling, and another half hour being thrown around like I was in a washing machine. I managed to get a nice slash across the calf by my fin. An hour after that, the place where I got slashed was managing to cramp up real good. That's a lot of fun, I tell you, halving your calf lock up and spasm in pain while surf is trying to drown you.
Still, I'll be out the next time there's good surf and I have some free time. (Although I'm considering a longboard. Those guys can ride tiny breaks and they get to ride a break for close to a minute. :techman:
